Virginia AT 09-2009: Guessing Game

At the Punchbowl Shelter - in the picture Darth Vader, Top Dog, Thunderbird, Listener

One of the games Straight Leg and I like to play while on the trail is guessing how many people we will meet along the total hike. There are many factors that contribute to our guesses (or that is what I would like to think), where we are, what time of year it is, what direction we are heading, what is the weather forecast, how far are we hiking, and how many days are we hiking? Is this a popular weekend hike? We only count hikers with packs (not daypacks), we do not try and separate the thru-hikers from the section hikers or the weekend hikers.

I think what it probably all boils down to is; what does my gut tell me? I have found out that my gut is almost always wrong! This hike Straight Leg guessed (and I do mean guessed not estimated) that we would meet 7 hikers, I expertly guessed (and once again I do mean guessed) that we would meet 10 hikers.

When we arrived at camp on Friday I was feeling pretty good about my guess, we had met 5 hikers throughout the day and I was certain that we would meet at least 5 on Saturday. When 2 more showed up at camp bringing our total up to 7 I was not feeling so good about my guess any longer. Sure, I was certain that I would beat Straight Leg but it also meant that I had probably guessed too low like the person that guesses $1 on the price is right....just feels like cheating.

The next day we did not pass anyone for quite some time, then out of the blue groups of 2 and 3 started coming. We ended up passing 18 hikers when all was said and done, almost twice what I had expected. Most appeared to be thru-hikers heading South to Georgia, some were section hikers checking off yet another few miles of the trail. We got to chat with a few, exchanging trail names and hearing little bits of their stories....it was a good time.

Croc

Virginia AT 09/2009 - US501 (James River) to US60

Just the Three of us at the James River -- Bike, Croc, and Straight Leg


Bluff Mountain - Just two quick observations about this picture...
#1 Straight Leg looks really upset about something
#2 my hair is really out of control

I love educational opportunities -- a 300 year old Chestnut Oak!


More educational opportunities

Just thought it was cool

We love fires

Some of Straight Leg's Ink

Want to Camp with Croc and Straight Leg?

So as we already established hiking with Croc and Straight Leg is very boring, I have several other examples showing how boring but would not want to put you to sleep and lose the few readers that I have.

How about camping with Croc and Straight Leg?

Well that is a loaded question, do you mean camping or getting in your bag and going to sleep? Because just like hiking with Croc and Straight Leg, camping with Croc and Straight Leg is even more boring. After 15 miles on the trail and shortened days (as there were in GA during October) there is not much else to do but crawl in your sleeping bag after a nice hot meal and pass out for the night. Well, by "the night" I mean you pass out until you get uncomfortable then you wake up and toss and turn for a few min hours before you fall back asleep.

As my wonderful mother says, "when the sun goes to bed, so do I".

Although, when it is nice and you have a nice fire burning, there is nothing more appealing than sitting around the warmth of a camp fire telling stories, jokes, and tall tales.

Thoughts from Off the Trail

The most pervasive thought in my mind was that the trip was amazing, the time on the trail (and away from work) was so healing. The views were outstanding and the weather...despite the cold weather and high winds...was amazing, there was not a drop of rain the entire trip.

The trip enabled me to clear my mind and focus on something other than work.

What I learned:

• 17 - 18 miles a day is too much for my 33 year old flatlander knees. 10 - 12 miles a day is perfect for having time to sleep in at the beginning of the day and wind down at the end of the day.
• 1/2 pound of gorp will last 3 days.
• Shoes make great storage for acorns.
  
• 2 energy bars (I like Cliff and Odwalla) a day is good, 3 or 4 is better.
• I can get my pack weight down to 25 lbs if I need to.
• You can hike in Crocs, it is not preferable but it is possible.
  

Muskrat Creek Shelter to Deep Gap: Mile 78 - 82

This was it, the end of a wonderful hike through Georgia (and 7 miles of North Carolina). We woke up with the hunting dog still in camp ate our breakfast and headed down the trail to meet Bike, we were hopeful that we could return the dog to her owner when we got there.

Along the way we noticed a very interesting spur trail name...



We Met Bike at Deep Gap, he had brought us McDonalds bacon egg and cheese bagles, mmmmmm....


Closing thoughts from off the trail to come.

P.S. The hunting dogs owners were at Deep Gap getting ready to head out hunting for the day and we were able to return her.

Deep Gap Shelter, GA to Muskrat Creek Shelter, NC: Mile 63 - 78

We broke camp at Deep Gap Shelter, after the first night on the trail that we were actually warm...maybe too warm, but never the less we were loving the pleasant change in temperature.

On our way back to the AT I found a single croc, just the right size, and for my left foot...weird. So I put it on and put mine back in my bag.


From there we hiked down to meet Bike at Dicks Creek Gap where he joined us and hiked for about and hour or so. At Dick's Creek Gap I tried to change into my running shoes but less than a quarter mile up the trail I knew that was not going to work -- so I went back to my croc. Thus, my trail name.

After almost 6 days of hiking (technically closer to 5 and a half) we finally made it to the GA/NC state line (75 miles from Springer Mountain)...aaannddd we begin the next state.

The state line is marked on a tree along the trail with a wooden sign, Straight Leg almost walked right past without noticing...no welcome to North Carolina sign? What kind of state is this?


By the way, if at any point you think, "I think Straight Leg and Croc are wearing the same outfit that they did yesterday". Just know that it is not in fact an optical illusion, we probably are wearing the same clothes.

Shortly after crossing the state line into North Carolina we found out what kind of state it was, we almost immediately started a brutal climb up Sharp Top. It was easily the steepest climb we have done on the AT to date, and if you climb Sharp Top make sure and catch your breath at the top because very shortly after completing Sharp Top you start climbing up Courthouse Bald!


On the way down Courthouse Bald heading for the Muskrat Creek Shelter, we came across a hunting dog who followed us to camp. Once at the shelter we met back up with the hiker from the Blue Mountain Shelter, ate a hardy meal, and went to bed happy knowing it was our last night on the trail.

Blue Mountain Shelter to Deep Gap Shelter: Mile 48 - 63

After a good nights sleep we restarted the fire before we broke camp atop Blue Mountain, we did not want to leave but needed to get down the trail.


We made it down to Unicoi Gap where we met Bike for resupply, we decided to take our time today and not hike too fast. Straight Leg was still hurting and walking with, yep you guessed it, a straight leg.


After we met him at Unicoi Gap Bike drove some hikers into town while Straight Leg and I headed for the top of Tray Mountain. There we stopped and ate lunch, took our time, and enjoyed the views from the top. A few miles after Tray Mountain my heel could not take it any longer so I took off my left boot and put on my camp croc.


We stopped to get water at Addis Gap, the source was 0.5 miles off the trail but the water source and campsites were awesome. If you need a great place to stop and camp I highly recommend Addis Gap.


Finally at Deep Gap Shelter, Straight leg and I were very tired, two days in a row of 15 plus miles has really begun to wear on us, although this will be our last night in Georgia and we are very excited about entering North Carolina.

Hogpen Gap to Blue Mountain Shelter: Mile 37 - 48

So after a hot shower, some sight seeing, a warm meal, and great conversation with Bike we headed off to dreamland in our nice warm beds...man it was nice compared to the night before. In the morning Bike cooked up some bacon and eggs with grits for breakfast, it tasted so good that it was almost the end of the hike right there -- well, not really.


Bike drove us back to Hogpen Gap where the temperature had warmed up to 27 and it was still slightly windy. Our warm breakfast was quickly becoming only a memory except for the fullness in our bellies. Straight Leg had iced down his knee really well the night before and the day started off ok with little discomfort in his knee...that would change for both of us.


For lunch we stopped along an old logging road (a section of the trail travels along an old logging road for several miles), Straight leg had been walking with one leg straight for miles. Protected from the wind the warm sunlight felt good, but it was here that I realized my heel was starting to bother me.

The remainder of the day was fairly uneventful and it was strange we had seen such little wildlife along the way so far. That is except for the acorns the squirrel so thoughtfully deposited into my shoe at Slaughter Creek.

We made it to the Blue Mountain Shelter (the shelter was very nice and well done) around 3:30 pm which gave us plenty of time to gather firewood and set up for the night. The temperatures improved greatly and the wind died down quite a bit. We built a very nice fire (our first of the hike) and ate a filling dinner. Later that evening another hiker showed up at the shelter, it was nice to have the company and conversation.


After we got in our bags for the night we heard a loud meow and a cat showed up. He evidently frequents the shelter and kept us entertained for a while.

Wordless Wednesday

Lunch and a rest atop Tray Mountain, GA

Total Filler

So it is snowing here and I just needed something to fill today's post, so it will be a short one. One of the things that I enjoy most about hiking is the unique trees, rock formations, and landscapes that you can witness while you are where most people do not walk.


Georgia was fun for several reasons but in large part because it was new terrain, different forests...in short it was a novel experience for my senses.

Sassafrass Mt to Slaughter Creek: Mile 11 - 27

Ok, so I am back...yes I know that I took off almost a month and it has been almost two months since I blogged about the hike so to refresh the first day check out Mile 0 - 11.


During the night on top of Sassafrass Mt. the winds began to pick up...now I don't mean the "this is a refreshing breeze", I mean the "holy cow are we going to be blown off this mountain" type of wind.

Does Straight Leg look Cold? Did I mention that it turned really cold?

When we broke camp it was cold and blowing so hard it felt like the tent was about to take flight, so we decided to pack up and head down the trail to find a more sheltered place to eat breakfast. Once we wrestled our kite tent into the pack we hot footed it to Justus Creek for breakfast.

Into the Blood Mountain Wilderness, after a quick rest at Woody Gap.

The day's hike was fairly uneventful although there were plenty of nice views, we met Bike at Woody Gap (he brought us Dr. Peppers), and hiked pretty hard and fast...too hard and fast.


When we made it to Slaughter Creek it was about 36 degrees and the wind still felt like a tornado in a trailer park. We cooked dinner, watched the sunset, and went to bed.

Hiking with Croc's Family

Did I mention that we really enjoy hiking as a family? I love hiking with my beautiful wife, she does day hikes with me and shorter weekend hikes when we can find someone to watch the girls. We also love to get out and have a lazy afternoon hiking with the girls and just enjoy some--often much needed--family time.


Morgan is a trooper and loves to sing while she is hiking, she is tireless...for the most part. Addie rides in the kidpack and seems to really enjoy the outdoors, she relishes the opportunity to get down and hike too.


Did I mention that I have absolutely adorable girls!

AT the Top

Views at the top are breathtaking, is there a better place to stop and take a breather?

Florida Plates

So what happens when one of your hiking buddies can't go hiking with you? Naturally you steal something that they will miss...or at least miss it when they find out you stole it.

When Moses could not go to Georgia with us I did the next best thing and took something of his with us.


Now wouldn't it be great if I actually took this off of his motorcycle and he went riding around without it, how would you explain that one to the cop?

"Honestly officer, it was here yesterday!"

But alas, he sold his motorcycle a few months back, so I just stole it off of his desk.


At various points along the trail we stopped for a photo opp with the license plate...and people gave us very strange looks. I cannot blame them really, I would give me strange looks too if I could.


We took some photos of the plate at some pretty amazing views and texted them back to Moses.


My favorite was at the GA / NC border where there seemed to be a paradox of sorts...MYFLORIDA.com straddling two states.

Blood Mountain

"Blood Mountain—According to tales of the Creek and Cherokee, a battle between the two nations on the slopes of the mountain left so many dead and wounded that the ground ran red with blood, which inspired the name." - Appalachian Trail Thru-Hikers’ Companion–2007

The Path

Words so often get in the way of what is important, or beautiful, or amazing... kind of like mine are doing right now.

This photo was taken on the AT in North Georgia where the trail follows an old logging road, Straight Leg and I stopped here to eat lunch and enjoy the warm sunlight.

The "Ironman Hiker" and Poor Planning

Before starting our trek Straight Leg and I felt we had done a good job planning, we knew there were things that we had not thought of but for the most part we felt that we had things covered. We were carrying enough--but not too much--food, we had our gear portioned out between the two of us, and we knew where we were going (in other words we knew to follow the white blazes and we had our maps--not rocket science). These seemed like pretty standard planning items to us until we met the "Ironman Hiker".

In the parking lot at Springer Mountain we met a guy getting ready to start off on a stage hike of his own. His plan: to hike to the Georgia - North Carolina border and back in 7 days. I am sure he did not notice my jaw hit the ground--not because I felt it could not be done, not because it was approximately 150 miles round trip, and not because (for those of you who are simple math challenged like me) that would mean hiking almost 21.5 miles per day (keep in mind it is already noon on day 1).

Nope, I had my doubts for two main reasons...the first was that he was carrying a military style ruck sack that must have weighed in at more than 70 lbs (it must have felt like carrying a small elephant on his back). He commented that he did not know what to bring...so he brought everything!

What?!? Really, everything!?!

The second reason was that his opening question to us was "hey, do you know which way I am supposed to head on the Appalachian Trail?"
Ok, a little explanation:
The Springer Mountain parking lot is located on Forest Service Road 42 about 0.9 miles North of the Springer Mountain summit and the Southern Terminus of the Appalachian Trail. So to begin the hike you must hike South on the AT 0.9 miles to the Springer Mountian summit, then turn around and begin hiking North. The trail instructions/ directions at the parking lot are clearly marked.

If you want to hike to the North (he was planning on skipping Springer Mountain) and there is a white blazed trail heading North and a white blazed trail heading South...it seemed pretty clear to us which one to take.

We did not see the "Ironman Hiker" for the rest of the trip, we did however talk to someone who had seen him on day 3 at the Gooch Mountain Shelter (mile 15), heading South back to Springer Mountain...

He must have made better time than he thought...

Georgia Thru Hike - Planning

We started planning about 3-4 months prior to our hike. The maps below show the elevation view of the trail through the State of Georgia and the portion of North Carolina that we completed.

The Original Plan

The original plan was to leave on Saturday morning and arrive at the Springer Mountain parking lot late in the afternoon. That night we would camp near the parking lot and start early the next morning.

Reality

Life has a way of changing your best laid plans, 0ur original plan was delayed half a day due to a bad back, and thus a late start. Fortunately this was only a delay not a cancellation. We arrived at the Springer Mountain parking lot on Sunday about noon. This put us about a half day behind.

The Original Plan

We had planned to hike about 14 to 15 miles per day with a couple 11 to 12 mile days thrown in for "easy" days.

Reality

We felt we were behind and wanted to make up ground, so we hiked almost 11 miles the first half day and more than 16 miles the second day. All of a sudden we found ourselves back on our original schedule, or so we thought (insert ominous foreshadowing here).

The Original Plan

We started off the last week in October and had planned for weather in the 60's during the day and the high 30's at night based upon historic high's and low's.

Reality

The weather started off very nice (60's during the day and low 40's at night) and was very nice by the end of the trip (about the same). There was not a drop of rain the entire trip, so we were grateful for the clear skies. However, the first night we were out the wind picked up and blew hard (and I mean hard) for the next three days. The temperature dropped and we recorded temperatures as low as 27F, this made getting up in the morning a real chore. I don't typically mind cold weather but because we were planning on high 30's/low 40's at night, I brought my 30F sleeping bag...it worked out fine, I just wore ALL of my clothes to bed.